The most important thing to know if you have never read one: read the instructions. Two or three times. Make sure you understand the symbols and connections. There are few things as interesting as trying to test a 110AC wall outlet when your meter is set for low voltage DC. You’ll know you messed up.

Your problem: your valve won’t come on. And we don’t know why. There are really three electrical reasons it might not: bad controller, bad wires, bad solenoid. We always start with the simplest test first.

When testing to see whether our problem is with the controller the question we are really asking is “does the controller put power out to the valve?” To check this we’ll simply test two connections inside the controller. So open your controller so that you can see where the valve wires connect. You should have one COMMON, usually white, and any number of zones, usually red but any color is possible.

Turn your Multimeter to the proper VAC setting. Turn the problem zone on with the manual start on the controller. Here we will say it is zone 1. Touch one lead to the common and one lead to the zone 1 wire/screw. You should get around 24V. Usually 22 to 28 works. If you get lower than 22 you have a problem. Check another zone even though the other zones are working properly. It only takes a second and verifies that the Mulitmeter is set and functioning correctly.

Let’s assume the voltage is good. Now let’s check the wires. We’ll check for continuity, which is testing the ohms or resistance of the zone. Turn to the Ohms setting. It might look like (Ω). Check your manual to be sure. This will test for a short in the circuit. First, turn off the controller. You don’t want to check resistance with a live circuit. Disconnect the zone wire. Place one lead on the common terminal and one lead on the zone wire/screw. Depending on the valve brand you should get a reading from 20-60 ohms; every manufacture’s valves will have a slightly different reading. Low signals indicate trouble with the solenoid. On the other hand, any reading above 60 means you have a wiring problem, either stripped insulation, nicked wire or bad connection. Wire problems can be involved so, before we get the shovel out, let’s go test the solenoid and other wire end. Before you start walking, manually turn the zone on again.

At the valve disconnect the wires from the valve. Now set your solenoid back to the proper VAC setting. Touch one lead to the common and one to the power. You should get the same reading here (24v) as you did at the controller. If you continuity test you did in the last paragraph failed you probably won’t. We are double checking the wire to make sure of problems before we tell you to start digging.

If all that passes we are left with two things: either the twist connection for the controller wire to valve was bad or the solenoid is bad. Let’s test the solenoid first. Go back to your Ohms setting. Touch one lead to one wire from the solenoid, the other lead to the other. Again, you should get between 20 and 60 ohms. If not, replace the solenoid. If it passes the only thing left is a bad connection. Re-connect the wires using waterproof connectors, see if it now activates. Remember that the controller has that zone on so 24V should be going through those wires.  Careful. Might want to turn the zone off then reconnect and test.

If you have not found the problem at this time there may be a mechanical problem in the valve. You can replace the valve but first just open it and clean the internals.

We tested the controller for output, the wire for continuity, the connections for, well, connection and the solenoid for resistance. All with the handy-dandy Mulitmeter.

If you plan on doing this on a regular basis, consider the Pro 48.   The Pro48 TechTool incorporates a solenoid activator to hold valves open; a chatterer to locate lost valves; a continuity checker to identify cut or shorted wires or solenoids; and a 24 VAC detector to ensure proper clock power output. Operation is simple as LEDs indicate tests and conditions. Truly a workhorse product for any landscape professional. This, along with a valve locator, can be purchased or rented at Sprinkler Warehouse.

We are going to discuss measuring, fitting and gluing pipe. The premise is that if you do it correctly you only do it once. Not to mention limiting trips to the hardware store and controlling blood pressure.

Before we do anything else, there are two warnings. One on safety, one on product performance.

• Folks, these are harsh chemicals. Don’t get them on your skin. Definitely don’t get them in your eyes. No breathing fumes. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation, as in ‘do it outside’. Wear gloves. Wear eye protection. Care to guess what the cement does to plastic contacts or your expensive glasses?
• There is such a thing as too much glue. This is not Elmer’s Paste. If you put too much cement on and it has a chance to puddle it can and will eat through the pipe or fitting. Now you have a hole in the fitting. Also, too much glue when attaching valves can drip into the valve body and cause failure.

First, get these things together:

• Rags
• Primer and cement
• Something to put the pipe on while you cut (sawhorse, cinder block, table, etc.)
• Gloves
• Hacksaw
• Marker or crayon
• Rough file or course sandpaper

Optional but you should have

• Miter box
• Pipe cutter, preferably ratcheting type though standard will work fine.
• Hammer/Channel Lock pliers

Measuring is the shortest part of this paper. Remember that you have to include the length of pipe that goes into the fitting and the length of the fitting. Say you have a 10’ section from corner to corner.  The fittings add length. You need to figure out how short to cut the pipe so you can add the fittings and still get 10’.  How far does the pipe go into the fitting?  Depends. Depends on the cut, the pipe, your strength.  There is a stop designed into the fitting. How far in is it? To find out, take the pipe and fitting, get them wet with water only, and push the pipe into the fitting with firm but not killer force. The water makes it easier to slide them together. Now take a pencil and mark the pipe at the edge of the fitting. Twist the pipe back out. The distance from that mark to the end of your pipe is your glue area. This can vary depending on fittings and pipe size.  Measure everything twice. Write it down.

Cutting the pipe is more important that people realize. The cut should be square and smooth.   If you don’t cut it square the short end will not make complete contact with the inside of the fitting and will not bond as it should. It helps to use a miter box, if you can, or good ratcheting cutters. Take your time. It will help avoid problems later.

Ideally the end of the pipe should be smooth with tapered edges. Now I know you don’t hear many people talking about tapering a PVC pipe edge. You’ve probably never seen it and I know many professionals that have never even heard of it. However, we’re discussing the correct way to do this. You can bring in the shortcuts when I’m not looking. If you have a simple square cut pipe it has a tendency to push the cement ahead of it, as in the drawing. A smooth pipe with an edge taper lets the cement flow between the two. So take your file, file off the burrs that are left from the cutting, if any, and add a quick taper to the end. At the very least use sand paper to smooth the edges and take off any burrs.

On to fittings.  Once you have your pipe cut do a practice assembly. We do this to make sure we don’t glue the elbow on facing the wrong direction. Lay the pipe out along the trenches. Put the elbows, Tee’s and 45’s on just as if you were putting it in the trench. Once you are sure it is correct draw a line on the fitting and pipe with a marker or crayon. This will help line it up for you when the cement is on and drying fast.

Ok. Pipes are cut, fittings are ready. Now time for primer and glue. First I’d like to clarify one thing. It’s not really glue or cement. It’s a solvent. The solvent basically melts the PVC. When two pieces of PVC are joined using PVC cement the plastic melts, molecules blend, and it re-solidifies to a single unit.  That’s a gross simplification of what happens but its close enough.  When the cement is through and the PVC has re-solidified it is now the strongest piece. If you do it right the fitting or pipe will break long before the joint.

The first thing you do is make sure the pipes and fittings are dry. There are some cements that don’t need primer and will work with a wet pipe but we tend to avoid them. First, using primer gives us a last chance to check the pipe. You’d be surprised how often a small crack will hide until the primer hits it. . The other reason is that special cement tends to set FAST. Real fast.  No room for error or hesitation. Why ask for trouble?

Now prime both the pipe and the fitting. Use just enough to do the job. Too much doesn’t gain you anything. Using the included dauber wipe the glue area of the pipe and the glue area of the fitting with primer. Since it’s purple it’s easy to keep track. By the way, it stains everything so be careful. Primer removes dirt and grease and preps the PVC. When PVC is formed it has a hard, clear coating on it. This is resistant to the cement. Primer removes the coating, exposing the PVC.

Now apply the cement to both pieces. Do the fitting first. Since the cement is inside you can lay it down for a moment while you coat the pipe. Once both are done push the pipe into the fitting, turning about ¼ to ½ turn as you go. This makes sure the cement spreads evenly. Hold it together for about 15 to 30 seconds. Because of the chemical reaction and the way the fittings are formed there is a tendency for push back. The pipe will want to come out so hold until is sets.  If you’ve done everything correctly you can look around the edge of the fitting and see a little glue bead that has been push out by the fitting. It should be continuous. A gap might mean a pinhole leak later. Wipe off any excess cement.

I know. I didn’t say what you did with the pliers or hammer. That’s ok. They are always good to have.

That’s it. Doing takes far less time than reading about it. Doing it correctly doesn’t add any time and sure can save you a headache in the future.

To use, hold one end of the tape against at the start of the pipe threads/end of pipe and start wrapping opposite of the direction of the threads, keeping the tape flat. Pull the tape tightly into the threads but not so tightly that the threads cut through. Keep going in a flat uniform manner until you come to the ends of the threads/pipe. Now thread the pipe in carefully and you’ll have a good seal.

You might want more than one layer but generally not more than two or three. If you are using drastically different materials, such as copper or brass to PVC, you may need extra but that is unlikely. Too much tape is as bad as too little. It will prevent a good seal. With the proper amount the pipe should thread together smoothly, sealing all gaps in the thread.

When do you not use plumber’s tape?

This tape is only effective on tapered threads as it uses compression to form the seal. Fortunately, the vast majority of the connections you make in irrigation will be with National Pipe Thread Tapered Thread, or NPT, and this tape will work well.

Many will tell you that brass to brass fittings are self sealing. In one manner they are but it takes an experienced professional to know which ones will work. You risk a leak if you are not sure you have the correct condition. Tape is cheap insurance. Brass fitting threads also tend to be extra sharp, especially on the smaller pieces, and may cut through the tape and ruin the seal. In this extra care is needed. In extreme cases you might need pipe dope but that is rare. The general connection involving brass in an irrigation system is with the backflow. Plumbers tape should work just fine there.

There are two important things to remember when you dig up the broken pipe. The first is BE CAREFUL. Don’t try to get all the dirt in one scoop. First, it’s bad for your back. Second, if you push too hard and end up hitting the pipe you could cause a brand new leak. When digging up a pipe it is best to take smaller, careful cuts to ensure that no other damage occurs.

Second, when you find the damaged area make sure to dig a few inches deeper and to each side. The system will have water in the pipe, waiting to get out. This water will want to flow out the handy opening you have just revealed. Digging extra deep allows for the water to drain below the pipe. Also, regardless of the type of patch you put in, you will need clear access to the bottom of the pipe. If you cannot dig deep enough to bring the water level down you will have to bail or pump it out. You will also need to dig to each side a little to give yourself working room for the repair.

Once you have found the leak you need to decide on what type of repair kit you need. All except one needs PVC primer and cement. We’ll discuss the exception first.

Compression Fittings

This can be used on either PVC or galvanized pipe. A compression fitting relies on pressure on a rubber seal to stop the leak. The compression collar and “O” ring slip on the pipe, the pipe slips in both ends, the collar is tightened and the leak is repaired. They have a number of advantages. Not needing cement means the pipe does not have to be completely dry to repair. If you need to you can do the repair while the water is running. Don’t laugh. It happens. They are quick to install and dependable. The primary disadvantage is they do not work for leaks at or near a fitting. For more information click HERE.

Leak Stopper Rings

If you have a small leak at the junction of a pipe into a fitting, but the pipe and fitting are not cracked, it’s possible you have an area that was not completely glued. Rather than cutting out the entire fitting for a minor leak you can use a Leak Stopper Ring. These go around the pipe, both the ring and pipe are primed and glued, then the ring is pushed hard against the fitting. The glue creates a permanent bond with the ring, the pipe and the fitting, stopping the leak. More information is HERE.

Snapper Repair Couplings

Snapper Repair Couplings are the Duct Tape of PVC: just wrap it up and it will hold. Snapper Repair Couplings are like two halves of pipe split lengthwise. A great advantage of these is you do not need to cut the pipe. The inside of both halves of the coupling and the outside of damaged area of the pipe are primed and cemented. The halves are snapped in place around the break and you have a permanent repair. More information is HERE.

Pipe Dream Fittings

Like many brilliant ideas this one is deceptively simple. Fittings and couplings tend to be a standard size. If you have a broken line you need to cut the break out. Now you need to reconnect the ends. To do this with standard fittings and pipe you must cut out a larger section of pipe, install fittings and install the new pipe. More work, more gluing. This is particularly hard if a corner or T fitting is involved. The simple idea of Pipe Dream is make the fitting extra long. Because they are longer than the standard coupler, elbow or tee Pipe Dream is able to completely cover the damaged area without the need for additional parts or supplies. Simple. More information is HERE.

Kwik-Repair Tees

This is another “why didn’t I think of that” product. KwikRepair Tees are simply a replacement section of pipe with the slip fit couplings already installed. The couplings are pushed in to the shortest length. The broken pipe section is cut out to a matching length. The KwikRepair Tee is then put in place, the Tee and pipe are primed and cemented, and the couplings are pulled out to full length. Job done. More information HERE.

Quik-Fix Telescopic Repair Coupling

A Quik-Fix coupling is simple and quick. Simply cut out section of broken pipe slightly longer than compressed Quik-Fix, apply primer and glue to fittings and expand Quik-Fix to fill the gap. Leak repaired. A great advantage is, because the fitting expands, there is some small room for error in how big a section of pipe you remove. For example, if you cut 1” less than the suggested length the Quik-Fix will still work. You just don’t expand it all the way. However, don’t cut too long, they don’t stretch. More information HERE.

Pipe Fix

Pipe fix give you more options in your repair. It is a section of replacement pipe with the fittings already in place. This provides a one piece, no hunting for parts, repair. It also offers the option of a straight repair or adding a Tee joint, allowing replacement of a failed Tee or the option of installing a new line. More information HERE.

Primer and Cement

Regardless of which method you choose all of these require a quality primer and cement, excluding the compression coupling. To find what we recommend, go HERE.

For More Information

For more information about anything involving irrigation, please visit us at www.SprinklerWarehouse.com.

1. 3/8″ electric drill, cordless or with cord
2. Masonry bit, if drilling holes in stucco.
3. Metal center punch. If drilling into wood, the punch isn’t necessary.
4. Wood type drill bit – to drill holes through the timer cabinet
5. Black sharpie or felt-tipped marker
6. A hammer
7. A level
8. Screws, with matching plastic wall anchors
9. Screwdriver

How to Install, Wire, and Set Up a New Irrigation Controller

1. Decide on the location for the sprinkler controller. Consider factors such as power supply, whether the sprinkler timer is an indoor or outdoor model, whether it will plug into an outlet or needs to be hard wired. Also consider convenience of operation, and ease of access for the user.
2. Unpack the timer. Some hardware and supporting documents will be included for the installation.
3. Remove the clock/timer face from the controller. The face should snap out easily. Look for clips or plastic tabs along the front or sides of the unit. Also detach the ribbon connector. If desired, remove the cabinet door by taking out the steel pin connecting the door to the main cabinet.
4. For extra stability, drill extra mounting holes through the back of the cabinet. Irrigation controllers usually come with pre-drilled holes or mounting hardware in the back, so this step is optional.
5. If hard wiring the timer, cut electric power. Turn off the breaker to the wires. Double check the wires to be sure the electricity is off, by using a volt-meter or ticker. The volt-meter gives off an alarm if it detects electricity in a line. An active electrical current can cause injury to the user, or throw off sparks that can damage the irrigation controller.
6. Mount the cabinet at a comfortable height, usually about eye level. Place the cabinet against the wall, and use the level to check that it is even. Use the felt tipped pen to mark the wall through the holes in the back of the cabinet.
7. If drilling into stucco, use the metal center punch. Line the punch up to the marks on the wall, and give it a firm whack with the hammer to make a small indentation in each mark. This keeps the stucco drill bit centered and stable. Drill holes into the wall at the marks.
8. Put the plastic inserts into holes. Tap them flush against the wall with the hammer.
9. Using screws, mount the timer cabinet to the wall. Connect the station wires. Make notes of which wires are responsible for each zone or valve of the sprinkler system, to avoid guesswork in the future.
10. Re-mount the timer face and re-attach the ribbon connector to the board. Do not turn on the power until these steps are complete. Replace the cabinet door. The controller is now ready for programming and operation.

Wiring the Controller to the Valves

1. Purchase sprinkler or irrigation wire. Buy one strand more than the number of zones desired. Usually, the white wire is the common wire, and the others will lead to individual sprinkler valves.
2. Turn off the power to the controller. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when attaching wires. Look for a terminal on the controller that says “C”. Attach the white or common wire.
3. Run a wire from the solenoid on each zone valve back to the controller. If the valves are underground, the wire will run alongside the PVC pipe leading to the valve. Be sure the connections are waterproof. Water leakage will damage the solenoid.
4. Each wire will regulate a different zone from a station on the controller terminal. Delegate the stations as desired and attach the individual wires. Make a written plan or diagram of the setup, to avoid confusion in the future. One can also mark the wires as Zone 1, Zone 2, and so on.
5. Do not turn on the power until wiring is complete.

How to Replace an Existing Irrigation Controller:

If you already have a controller that is giving you problems and find that you need to replace it with a new one, let me reassure you that it is very easy to replace a controller and most any homeowner or irrigation repair person can handle this task. First, if possible, it makes your job easier if you can write down all of your existing programming from the old controller. Specifically, you want to write down the specific days scheduled for watering, the start times and how long each zone is scheduled to be watered. You will need to use this information to program the new controller. If the old controller is completely dead and you can not get this information, no worries, as you can program the new controller to water a few days a week and the rotor zones for 20 minutes and the spray head zones for 5 to 8 minutes each time they come on. A good start time is 4:00 or 5:00 am so that all the watering is completed before you need to start using water in the house in the morning. Then you can adjust these settings later as you find that the yard is getting watered too much or not enough.

Make sure to unplug your transformer from the wall, if you have an indoor system, or turn off the power to the timer at the breaker box, if you have an outdoor system. Use that volt-meter to verify the power is not reaching the controller. The next step is to label each of the control valve (hot) wires on the old timer. Label them according to the zone they are connected to, zone 1, zone 2, zone 3, etc.  Also label the common wire connected to the common connection and the pump start wire if you are using a pump. Now you are ready to disconnect the wires.

If possible, buy the same model and brand as the controller that was already in the system. If you can not buy the same model, that’s ok, just get one that has the correct number of stations or zones that you had on your old timer and make sure you get all the features you want. Now is a good time to upgrade to a better more feature rich timer. Take the old controller out and mount the new one on the wall. Reconnect your wires as they are labeled and reprogram your controller with your watering schedule. Turn the controller on and make sure all zones are working properly.

I told you, replacing a controller is very easy as long as you label the wires before removing them from the old timer.

Differences in installing an indoor controller and an outdoor controller

Sprinkler system controllers come in interior or exterior models. Indoor sprinkler system timers plug easily into an electric outlet. The interior models have a power supply or transformer that converts 110/120 volts of standard house power to the 18-24 volts required for sprinkler system operation. Exterior sprinkler system controllers are housed in sealed weather-resistant cabinets. The exterior controller has a transformer inside the cabinet, and must be hard wired into the power supply.

Indoor irrigation controllers can also be installed outside. Weather-resistant cabinets are available separately, to convert indoor controllers to outdoor use.

How to install a controller when a pump is also going to be used

1. A pump brings water from a well, pond or nearby water source to the sprinkler system. When using a pump instead of a municipal water supply line, choose a sprinkler timer that will work best with the pump.
2. Electric sprinkler system controllers can turn the pump on and off at pre-programmed times. Most irrigation controllers have a pump circuit built in. The timer uses a voltage relay to start and stop the pump. The relay allows the controller, which operates on 18-24 volts, to communicate with the pump, which uses standard house voltage (110/120v).
3. Do not connect the irrigation controller to an existing relay. If the pump already has a starter circuit with relay, the user will need to install a new one for the controller.
4. To hook up the pump, connect the wires from the pump start switch to the pump start terminal(s) on the controller. Some irrigation controllers feature zone-by-zone programming for more effective pump operation.
5. Use a flow switch with the sprinkler timer relay. The flow switch turns off the pump if there is no water flow, preventing the pump from overheating in case of a system malfunction or water supply interruption.
6. A delay feature is helpful when installing an irrigation controller with pump. The delay allows slow-closing valves to shut down completely in one zone, before the next zone starts operating.
7. Check with local authorities to be sure of bylaws and water codes. Some areas have regulations regarding the operation of pumps and lawn sprinkler systems.

Items to Consider Adding to The Controller

• Extra Stations
  Many lawn sprinkler system timers can be adapted to add extra stations, in case of expansion or amendments to the lawn sprinkler system.
• Remote Control
  Remote control allows the user to operate indoor or outdoor sprinkler system controllers from a distance. If the system doesn’t come with a remote, the user can add a remote control transmitter & receiver to most lawn sprinkler system controllers. The remote control comes in handy if the user wants to do work or maintenance on the sprinkler system, or operate the controller from a remote location. It makes spring check ups and maintenance much easier. You can turn zones on and off without walking back and forth to the timer.
• Computer Control
  The user can control the sprinkler timer and features from a computer.
• Weather Devices
  Some irrigation controllers have built-in rain sensors. If not, adding a rain sensor or other weather device to the controller is a practical option for most home and property owners. Weather devices also sense outdoor temperature to guard against freezing. A solar power converter is a handy add-on feature available in some sprinkler system controllers.
• Mounting Pedestal
  Instead of mounting the sprinkler timer to the wall, the user has the option of mounting the controller on a stand-alone pedestal. Some irrigation controller pedestals include a separate wiring board.
• Rain shut off devices or other weather devices
  Rain sensors and rain shut-off devices automatically adjust the system’s function when rain is detected. Some sprinkler system controllers feature seasonal adjustment options. Other weather devices include wind sensors, which shut down the system in case of high winds, or temperature-sensitive features to regulate the function of the lawn sprinkler system.

Where to Buy a Controller / Timer

For more information about irrigation system repair, troubleshooting irrigation systems,  irrigation controllers, options and features, or to purchase a new irrigation controller or sprinkler timer, go to www.SprinklerWarehouse.com.

Irrigation System Repair

Hunter Diaphragm

Valve is an essential part of the irrigation sprinkler system. The main components of sprinkler valves are the diaphram, solenoid, springs, and various gaskets or O-rings. The solenoid, an electric cylinder, is a crucial part of an automatic valve. The solenoid receives electric message from the sprinkler system controller, and in turn controls the movement of the diaphram. Manual irrigation valves don’t require a solenoid.

The diaphram is the rubber plug inside the valve, responsible for opening or shutting off the flow of water. Behind the diaphragm is a wire spring. Some irrigation valves have a jar-top lid; in others, the lid may be held in place with screws. Many valve designs feature a bleed screw, which can be tightened or loosened to manually control the flow of water to the valve.

Rain Bird Solenoid

If one of the lawn sprinkler valves needs repair, it;s usually not necessary to replace the entire valve. The valve can be disassembled, and the components separately replaced. Major manufactures of sprinkler valves also make replacements parts, and it’s often easier to replace the parts than to cut the entire valve from the pipe.
If you need more irrigation help, please visit IrrigationRepair.com
If you want to buy parts to DIY srpinkler system, please visit SprinklerWarehouse.com

Hunter HPV Series 1" Valve

How To Repair Sprinkler System if something goes wrong? Here I am going to tell you a trick on irrigation system repair.

When you have a faulty solenoid, It is better to buy the valve and take the top off the new valve and replace the old valve top. Plus a new valve is cheaper than if you buy the parts separately. This way you will end up with a new diaphragm, solenoid, and internal filters. You will have a new valve since the bottom body piece is only a PVC base and does not go bad. The trick is you must use the exact model valve as the old valve. If you can not find the same valve (if yours is so old that we do not have it online) then we suggest you replace the entire valve. I hope this little irrigation help helps! Please visit SprinklerWarehouse.com for your parts and replacements!