I have a Hunter SRC Programer. The question I have is: I have four stations and when I set the start time do I just set station #1 for example at 6am and then stations 2,3 & 4 to off and they will come on after station 1 waters? Or do I put 6am on 2 through 4 also? Thanks, Ron
I recently experienced a close lighning strike and my Toro Greenkeeper 212 stopped working. I have power to the unit, but the screen is blank. I need help.
I just bought a house that has a Hunter Pro-C sprinkler system. it worked great until we had a power outage. I have checked all the breakers, everything else in the house works/has power. The power outlet is hot. There is no indication on the panel that it has power. Nothing. No error message, no message at all. I have tried everything I can think of and the manual does not address this problem. Any ideas?
does yor controller have surge protection?
I have a hunter pro-c sprinkler system and now that the rainy season over in my area, I decided to turn system and it only runs on zones 1,2 & 3. I try running it on manual and it does the same thing. I try to erase the program and reprogram the system, but it will not erase. What do think is the problem?
I am using the Rain Bird XFD dripline product to irrigate my scrubs and ornamental trees in by backyard. As I only had a single circuit available, the retailier I purchased my irrigation products from suggested that I create circles with the XFD .9 GPM dripline around each plant and connect them together with poly tubing. Basically, I have a giant spider web of irrigation line material using approximately 175′ of XFD dripline.
My problem is that we just added some additional plants that are 1 to 2 feet lower on a slope that is below the majority of my other plants and spider web of dripline. This results in an excessive amount of water flowing out of the lower elevation driplines and not much out of the end of my upper elevation dripline.
I would think that I could install some type of inline flow restrictor on the trunk line going to the lower elevation plants, but I have no idea what I could use or how to do it. Do you have any suggestions?
The Rain Bird XFD dripline is supposed to be pressure compensating, which means you would not have that problem. From their description: “Pressure compensation ensures consistent flow from each inline emitter throughout the entire length of tubing run from 8 to 60 psi. ” Did you use the same line for the lower section? The only thing I could see causing this is extremely low pressure, say less than 9 psi. This would keep the compensators from functioning correctly. Your length of run is well within parameters.
Yes, I have the same line and components throughout and I am running about 30 psi on the line. According to the Rain Bird XF Series Drip Design Guide, and I paraphrase, when the slope is steeper than 5%, water flow in the soil can be significant and water migration from higher elevations causes the lower area to be overwatered. These areas should be on a separate zone but I just didn’t have this option. The lowest plants and bark along my back yard berm are super saturated while the top section of my system is now dry.
Ok. I was working on the idea that the line was putting out too much water due to failure. There is an inline valve you can install and adjust as you need. http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/DIG-Drip-Shut-Off-Valve-p/28-013.htm. Remember that if you have a loop you need one on both feed ends. Other option is to replace the lower sections with a lower gph hose. There is 1/2″ at .58gph and 1/4″ at .52gpm. The 1/4″ is not pressure compensating.
My 6 position valve only changes when I turn the water off and on for each zone change. What iss wrong?
Indexing valves require a complete stoppage and restart of flow to move the internal disk from one zone to the other. This is normal.
Hi , a close lightning strike turned on 2 of 3 zones EVEN though the power knob was in the off position. The only way to turn system on and off is by unpluging it and zone s are out of wack.
I’m afraid your controller is fried. You can try a complete reset but I’ve yet to see a controller survive a close strike. If you come back with make and model I’ll find reset instructions for you.
This is not a comment.. I have a question about my EZ 1.5 gallon system. The system was installed on my sprinkler system per the instructions on June 13, 2012, I filled it with the required fertilizer that came with the system per the instructions. I set it on number one distribution. I checked the tank today July 28, 2012, and it has not distributed any fertilizer into the Green 1/4 inch tubing. The Blue 1/4 inch tubing has a dark color all the way through it. I checked the lines to make sure they were connected correctly, and they are connected Blue to Blue and Green to Green. I called the Tech help line and got put on hold for over an hour, it kept telling me that I was next in line for a tech over and over for an hour until it hung up on me which I thought was very rude. I would very much appreciate someone calling me to tell me what is wrong with the very expensive system?
I just spoke with the operations manager at Ez-Flo and they will be in touch with you shortly. I forwarded a copy of your post so they know the problem.
Issue resolved. Adapters were used to fit existing pipe size. Per Ez-flo “When a larger injection coupling is installed in a smaller mainline the system will flow slower than published or not at all.
When a smaller injection coupling is installed into a larger mainline the system will flow too fast.”
Ez-flo worked directly with Mr. Powers to resolve problem.
Mr. Powers mentioned that hold times was excessive and he was then disconnected.
This was our mistake.
We changed hours of operation the week before he called but our phone system was not completely reprogrammed until August 1st.
When he called we were closed but our phone system continued to function as if we were open.
This is not the experience we want any customer to have and we do offer our apologies.
I need to replace an old Nelson in-ground impact sprinkler. The only number I see on the cannister is P-48 (on the plug at bottom of cannister. The head measures about 5 1/2″ in diameter on top and the sprinkler inside the head say Beta II on it. Any idea what make/ model I should use to replace this sprinkler?
I can’t verify complete dimensions of the Nelson Beta II and canister. If you have the pop-up model it looks like the Rain Bird Maxi-Paw would fit. Head diameter is 5″ and the inlet takes both 1/2″ and 3/4 mpt.
Does anyone know if I can just swap out an older Hardie RD600 controller for a newer Irritrol RD600 by just unplugging the “ribbon” plug connector and connecting it to the newer one? Are both models exactly alike? I know I can disconnect each zone wire and reattach to new unit. But it would be so much easier to just swap the actual “brain”. Is this possible? Good idea? Thanks!
I can’t find a schematic anywhere, which is not unusual. Most companies don’t publish one. Best bet is to call Irritrol 1-800-634-TURF (8873)
Thanks! I’ll give them a call!
need assistance regarding my front lawn. Two sprinkler head constantly leak. They are the two that are the lowest positions in the sprinkler system. I was assuming that water will flow to its lowest point. The water that remains in the system continues to leak from these two sprinkler heads.
Look at Rain Bird’s 1800- Seal-a-Matic series or the K-Rain 78000 series. Both have built in check valves to reduce water seepage.
I have a Greenkeeper 212 system. I cannot turn the system on manually. The switch is in the run mode, and the rain sensor switch is off. I can manually turn the solenoids on and the system operates. I have checked the fuse and wiring and everything appears ok ???
Program selector on correct program? “I cannot turn the system on manually” Does it work in auto? If not, and no zones respond, sounds like a problem with the common wire to the valves. Turn on a zone, go to that valve, check for current on the wires using a multimeter. Should have 24volt (24 to 28 or so). If not you have to start tracing wires to find break/short.
when my system is running there is a loud noise that sounds like a vibration or even a small motor . could it be a bad valve or a reduced pressure back flow prevente?.
All zones or just one? New problem or been doing it for a while? Just one zone= valve, probably. All zones could be the rpz, water hammer due to pressure problems, etc. If all zones try closing down the ball valve on your RPZ slowly while system runs. See if it makes a difference.
Do the Hunter MP rotator nozzles fit in a Toro 570 body.
Toro uses a female thread stem. The MP Rotator is available in both male and female threads. Get the right one (male) and you are ok.
Fact: Rain Bird ESP-6si system
Fact: Apply power and the 1 AMP fuse blows immediately
Fact: Fuse blows with selector dial in any position
Fact: I have checked for shorts in system from outlet to console – none visible
UNKNOWN: What could cause this fuse to blow every time?
Check for shorts in wiring to valves. If it happens on any zone and you know controller is not at fault then it points to the common wire.
I am new and not sure where to post my question. Rain dial RD 600 11 years old. 9 volt battery goes dead in about 2 weeks and shut down the controller. Where do I look to solve this problem. Phil
For some really good technical advice on anything, post your question on sprinklertalk.com. You’d be surprised at what people come up with.
On your problem, I did a scan of all Rain Dial issues on sprinklertalk. If you check all visible wires and they are tight then the problem lies in the system board. The general consensus is that, if it is in the system board, you might as well replace the controller. However, Irritrol is one of the few companies that offer controller rebuilds. Call their tech support line at 800-634-8873 and see what they can do for you.
We had a power outage after a storm and now err appears on the screen and the sprinklers dont go on. How do I reset the system?
Without knowing the controller brand and model it’s hard to answer.
Take a look at http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Irrigation-Product-Manuals-s/779.htm
You’ll find most of the controller manuals there.
Or, if you come back with the info we’ll be glad to find it for you.
I have low pressure coming from one of my sprinkler heads. There is no identifying leak and the other heads water pressure is perfectly fine. I changed the head on that particular sprinkler and the pressure is still really low. What do you thing the problem is?
Could be debris in the line. Remove the head, run zone for a few seconds, replace and test.
If debris is clogging line and can’t be blown out you won’t see the kind of fountain you should get on an open line.
Has head operated ok before? If so, could also be hidden leak.
Finally, if last head on zone and there are too many heads you could be losing pressure before it gets there.
To test, cap one of the other heads, see if this one starts working.
need controller that works off of temp and loops….namely continues to sprinkle until temperature drops….anything available?
I assume you are concerned about freezing. You are not looking for a particular controller as much as an add on freeze sensor. Most manufacturers make them. Look at http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Sprinkler-System-Rain-Freeze-Wind-Sensors-s/33.htm. Most of them have fixed temp settings. They shut off at 37 degrees.
The Toro TWRFS lets you choose from 35 to 45 degrees.
I have a fairly large system that I installed myself over a period of years, with 90 or so Hunter I-20 rotors. Two rotors will not pop up by themselves. I can pull slightly on the top of the rotor and that is enough to get it to pop up, an once up it will stay up for the rest of the valve cycle. Any suggestions for the fix other than to change out the rotor?
I’m assuming no leaks or pressure problems. Remove the cap ring, remove guts. In the bottom of the shaft is a filter. You should be able to pull it out by hand. If really old/dirty you might need pliers. Clean the filter, rinse the rest of the assembly to remove any grit or debris, particularly around seals. Re-assemble. For a video go to Hunters I-20 page at http://www.hunterindustries.com/resources?f%5B0%5D=im_related_product%3A216.
Got to bottom of page, click on Rotor Series: cleaning a filter.
If this doesn’t work there isn’t much you can do except buy a new one and swap guts.
You did not mention water coming up past the shaft so it sounds like the seals are still ok.
I have installed rainbird 22sa rotors and they are spinning very fast and not getting the corners. I have 70 psi and I’m thinking this is causing the issue?
The Rain BIrd 22sa rotors spin fairly quickly so that sounds normal. However, the sweet spot on pressure is 45psi. The performance chart doesn’t list anything above 55 psi. In any type of nozzle too much pressure can cause problems.
The excess pressure changes the stream pattern, causing misting in some and disrupted sprays in others. This decreases efficiency and coverage.
If your problem is not caused by improper coverage then pick your worst spot and install a Rain Bird 1804-SAM-P45 http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Rain-Bird-Sprinkler-Spray-Body-p/1804-sam-p45.htm spray body and see what happens.
Remember that this nozzle cannot cover a90 degree corner by spraying into the corner. It must be in the corner and spray out.
how do I adjust the rotor head to water in a semi circle, I tried adjusting it with a screw driver type tool and now it goes all around the wrong side.
Depends entirely on the brand and model of rotor. Take a look at this rotor adjustment page It covers Rain Bird, Hunter, Irritrol, Toro, Signature (Nelson) and Weathermatic. Should have what you need. The Hunter adjustment is on Page 2 of the guide.
Some heads do need a special tool. The instructions will indicate these.
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